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Ladataan... The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the WorldTekijä: Virginia Postrel
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- Ei tämänhetkisiä Keskustelu-viestiketjuja tästä kirjasta. The book consists of seven chapters with a preface and afterward. Each chapter deals with a particular part of fabric production: Fiber, Thread, Cloth, Dye, Traders, Consumers, and Innovators. Each chapter starts in ancient times and ends in modern ones, showing how things have changed over time. Fabric is one of those things that is so ubiquitous and important for life, and yet is also so ordinary and cheap nowadays that we simply forget about it. The book emphasizes that for most of human history fabric was at the forefront of thought. The amount of time and effort that’s gone into clothing and cloth for other purposes (sails, table coverings, curtains, blankets, etc.) is astronomical. The book begins with the idea that modern people look at ancient art dealing with women and see a spindle and think, ah, this is a domestic scene. But we forget that the spindle as a means of turning fibres into thread was the start of production, necessary for the home, yes, but also an important industry. Millions of women over the course of history have spun thread and made cloth, whether of flax, cotton, wool, or silk. It was constant work because cloth is always needed. The book also shows how spinning thread was undervalued, partly because it was women’s work, but also because the higher the cost of thread, the higher the cost of cloth. We do the same thing today, keeping the final cost of clothing low so the rich can buy a lot of it, even if that means exploiting the workers who sew the cloth into clothing. My interests are in ancient and medieval history so I didn’t expect the modern sections to interest me, but they were also fascinating. Learning about how cotton plants were cross bread and a fluke mutation created the cotton plants bred today was neat. This is an excellent book dealing with a topic that affects everyone, but to which we give entirely too little thought. This was a very interesting account of the ways in which textiles have played a role in the development of civilization. Virginia Postrel looks at all stages of textiles from fiber to thread to cloth and dye, as well as the roles of traders and consumers, from ancient times to the present day. She concludes with innovators who are driving today’s textile industry forward in ways their forebears could never have imagined. In every chapter of this book I found “aha moments,” and things that sent me off to the internet to learn more. I had never thought about the parallels between weaving and computer programming, but that explains a lot about why I find weaving patterns so interesting. Postrel unpacks a lot of scientific concepts in ways that make them easier for the layperson to understand. Although I admit some of these interested me more than others (I may have skimmed at times), I found this book fascinating on so many levels. Quines són les necessitats bàsiques per l’ésser humà?, alimentar-se, l’aixopluc i vestir-se. D’aquestes tres, la demanda de dues, alimentar-se i vestir-se, són infinites, es renoven constantment. D’aquestes dues, la que proporciona un major valor afegit és la necessitat de vestir-se, car que els tèxtils proporcionen unes oportunitats de diferenciació social, estatus, valor estètic i negoci uns quants ordres de magnitud per sobre de l’aliment, per molt vital que sigui aquest últim. Si féssim un salt enrere de 500 anys en una màquina del temps, i volguéssim utilitzar coneixements moderns per a fomentar una indústria per crear riquesa per la nostra ciutat o país, aquesta indústria seria la tèxtil. Recordem que la revolució industrial a occident es va construir sobre els telers de les fàbriques. “El tejido de la civilización” és el títol de l’últim llibre que he llegit. Recorre des de tots els angles possibles la manera en què el teixit, la seva confecció, ha estimulat el coneixement, la tecnologia, el comerç. El teixit ha sigut una força impulsora de la civilització, està darrere dels orígens de l’agricultura, un dels beneficis de la qual podria ser la producció de fibres naturals. Està darrere dels orígens de la química moderna, que buscava la creació de nous i millors tints. Està darrere de la comptabilitat per partida doble i la invenció de les lletres de canvi per part dels comerciants tèxtils italians. Els primers codis binaris (1,0,1,0,1,0,1,0) podrien tindre un origen probable en patrons per la trama d’un telar, i d’aquí podríem saltar als Elements d’Euclides, l’aritmètica dels quals tenen molt sentit prenent-los com un conjunt d’exercicis orientats a calcular els fils de la trama i l’ordit necessaris per a crear elements decoratius geomètrics a la tela. Tot el que el llibre explica és fascinant i l'autora, Virginia Postrel, s'ha hagut de documentar d'allò més en una gran quantitat de matèries diferents. Jo l'únic punt feble que li he trobat és que degut a la complexitat d'algunes explicacions tècniques sobre la confecció, i el funcionament d'alguns telers, falten imatges que ajudin a comprendre l'explicació, que inevitablement és feixuga. Recm'd by a former supervisor (SM). Fascinating account of the role of yarn and fabric making in the development of civilization. A great take away line from the introduction was an explicit inversion of the hoardy Arthur C Clarke quote: "any sufficiently familiar technology is indistinguishable from nature." Well worth the read. (2022 Book 2) ei arvosteluja | lisää arvostelu
"The story of humanity is the story of textiles--as old as civilization itself. Textiles created empires and powered invention. They established trade routes and drew nations' borders. Since the first thread was spun, fabric has driven technology, business, politics, and culture. In The Fabric of Civilization, Virginia Postrel traces this surprising history, exposing the hidden ways textiles have made our world. The origins of chemistry lie in the coloring and finishing of cloth. The beginning of binary code--and perhaps all of mathematics--is found in weaving. Selective breeding to produce fibers heralded the birth of agriculture. The belt drive came from silk production. So did microbiology. The textile business funded the Italian Renaissance and the Mughal Empire; it left us double-entry bookkeeping and letters of credit, the David and the Taj Mahal. From the Minoans who exported woolen cloth colored with precious purple dye to Egypt, to the Romans who wore wildly expensive Chinese silk, the trade and production of textiles paved the economic and cultural crossroads of the ancient world. As much as spices or gold, the quest for fabrics and dyes drew sailors across strange seas, creating an ever-more connected global economy. Synthesizing groundbreaking research from economics, archaeology, and anthropology, Postrel weaves a rich tapestry of human cultural development"-- Kirjastojen kuvailuja ei löytynyt. |
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Author Postrel takes the reader through different aspects of textiles, from cloth to dyes to consumers, etc. to how technological advances mechanized how we have textiles today. It was interesting to see how this process evolved over the centuries for something that many of us no longer think about on a day to day basis.
That said, the criticisms are completely on point. There are lots of cool facts here, but in a book that is far too long and would have read better as a series of longread articles. It is also highly Euro-centric, which was extremely disappointing. Textiles clearly have different processes, routes, meanings, etc. in different parts of the world that is not quite reflected here. There is also a significant issue of exploitation and slave labor (that cheap shirt came at the price of someone's hard labor) which is not really addressed here.
So while interesting, it is hard to forget many of the issues that come with textiles. I would not be surprised to see this book in an art history-type class, although perhaps classes on say archeology, social/cultural-related classes, history of fashion, etc. might see this book, too. As a layperson I would guess there are better resources out there and this would be mostly skippable unless you have a special interest.
Borrowed from the library and that was best for me. (